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Whenever curating a list of London’s finest eateries, one might expect familiar Michelin-starred venues. However, situated prominently among these culinary heavyweights is a simple salonu situated in a outlying area of northern London.

An Shocking Accolade

The small Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a influential food magazine. This honour has left the family utterly astonished.

“I’m utterly astonished,” states a family member, alluding to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their modest shop securing such a lofty position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

The little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular food hotspot, has kept much of its former charm. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking display, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” comments the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the cuisine, and this establishment more than succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a succulent quality.

It is then added into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. When the flavourful mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, toastier and not overly sweet flavour.

Surpassing the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place stuffed for below £25, comparable meals at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

A Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is most important is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to reveal what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Dedication

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a social life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is likely to echo beyond its own walls. “In my opinion numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the wider significance of this gastronomic achievement.